fookgub Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 (edited) Here is the first of two new projects I'll be posting today. Both are in the test-fit stage. All of the shaping and rough woodworking is done, and the guitar is strung up and playable. All that's left to do is sanding and finishing. There are a lot of pictures, so let's just go down the list. First, a photoshop preview of the finished guitar. A PG member was nice enough to 'shop this up for me. The shape is from the "Tonemaster" guitar plan offered by Guitar Plans Unlimited. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-preview.jpg The body wood. This is the last body blank I'll buy from eBay. I bought it because it was already glued, and don't have a tablesaw or a jointer. I figured that would save me some time, but the glue joint was awful. It looked like the guy just glued it up straight off a poorly set-up contractor's saw. I ended up cutting it down the glue joint on my neighbor's table saw, then finding a local guy off Craigslist to run it through his jointer. End result was good, but if I knew I was going to do all that work from the beginning, I could have just gone to the local lumber yard and saved some money. Also, the boards arrived cupped. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-wood.jpg Gluing the two-piece body blank. It's alder, by the way. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-glueup.jpg The wood was 1.75" thick, but I needed 1.5" (did I mention this is a semi-hollow with a maple top?). So I built a router thicknessing jig. My router isn't variable speed, so I stick to shallow passes and small bits. It takes a while, but the end result is a uniformly thick board with nice flat surfaces. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-thicknessing.jpg Drawing out the shape. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-drawing.jpg Skipped a couple steps here. I bandsawed out the shape, brought it close to the line with my pattern sander (basically a shop-made robo-sander), then routed it flush. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-shaped.jpg The next four pictures deal with hollowing out the inside and routing the wiring channels. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-inside1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-inside2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-inside3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-inside4.jpg Bought a mildly figured maple top from Larry at Gallery Hardwoods. It came as two piece needing to be joined. After a few failed router attempts, and much swearing, I decided to build a jointer. I can't remember who suggested this design, but I read about it on the forum. Southpa, maybe? http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-joining1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-joining2.jpg The jointer worked great! Now I'm gluing the top. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-topglueup1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-topglueup2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-topglued.jpg Paint the inside black. My current design doesn't call for an f-hole, but who knows? I might add one later. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-paintinside.jpg Attaching the top. Getting even pressure was hard. Next time I'm going to make a full-size clamping caul. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-attachtop1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-attachtop2.jpg Top bandsawed. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-topbandsawed.jpg Skipped a few steps here. I brought the top flush with the body. No router this time... I was afraid of tearout. Routed the neck pocket and pickup cavities, and did the roundover. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-toprouted.jpg Marking the holes for the pickup screws. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-pickupinstall.jpg The pickups are installed with machine screws that go into metal standoffs. I think I used 2-56. This picture shows the standoffs epoxied into place. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-pickupstandoffs.jpg Skipped a few more steps. I drilled the neck mounting holes, installed the neck and all the hardware, then strung it up. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-testfit1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-testfit2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-testfit3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-testfit4.jpg I've actually been playing this thing for almost two weeks. I've been waiting for my other project to get the the test-fit stage so I can do a side-by-side comparison. That way I can still make changes if I want to, and it's much easier than it would be after the guitar is finished. Besides that I haven't really wanted to take it apart yet... I'm having too much fun playing it. If you're curious about the Line 6 neck, it's a left-over from my other project. I need to do some serious work to the neck. I'll probably change the fingerboard out for a figured maple one, definitely have to recarve the back, and refinish the whole thing in gloss with a matching headstock. So that's about it. I'd love to hear what you guys think so far. Edited September 9, 2009 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Looks great! After your experience with the body, though, I don't know why you'd rework the neck rather than making a whole new one? Looking forward to seeing this painted and finished. It definitely needs that final touch. But man, talk about executing an idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Nice! Glad to see it all worked out exactly as planned. I've liked that tonemaster shape ever since I first saw it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted July 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 After your experience with the body, though, I don't know why you'd rework the neck rather than making a whole new one? Looking forward to seeing this painted and finished. It definitely needs that final touch. But man, talk about executing an idea! Thanks for the comments! It certainly does need some clean-up, but I'm very happy with how it's coming out. The next trick is going to be getting the translucent red like in the photoshop. I've never done a translucent finish before and I'm still researching how I want to do it. Also, I'm going to switch paint systems. In the past I've used nitro, but I want to try that Sherwin-Williams stuff that Wes used for his Exploder. As for the neck, the changes aren't as drastic as they sound. I'm planning on about 3 evenings for the woodworking stuff. The re-carving is going to be minimal... mostly just taking a little off the outsides to make a soft V. Part of the reason for swapping the fretboard is to see how much room I have around the truss rod (and I think the guitar will look killer with a flamed maple board). You're right that it wouldn't be much more work to make a new neck, but I need to start using up some of the parts I have. I have two necks and three bodies taking up space right now, and no plans to use them in the near future. Ben, I remember you doing some work in my photoshop thread. Glad you like how it's turning out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertbart Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Looks good to me. Please take photos of the finishing and how about a link to that Sherwin Williams product you mentioned. I always use Nitro but maybe it's time for a change. I agree with the statement that "you should build a neck for it". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Looks good to me. Please take photos of the finishing and how about a link to that Sherwin Williams product you mentioned. I always use Nitro but maybe it's time for a change. I agree with the statement that "you should build a neck for it". I've always used nitro, too, but I'm sick of the long curing time, and it doesn't dry as hard as I would like. I'm hoping the Sherwin Williams stuff will cut my finishing time down significantly, and lend a little more durability to my finishes. Sherwin Williams stuff: Discussion in Inlays & Finishing: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...=27755&st=0 Westheman's Exploder: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=28048 Product link: http://www.sherwinwilliams.com/OEM/wood/products/haps/ Spec Sheet: http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/ImgServ?...onvar_f24_e.pdf I'm still wondering how I should do the color coats. I recall Wes had some problems with the finish curing after he added dye. I'm thinking I might do the color coats with shellac, then use the SW stuff for clear only. hmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted September 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 A little progress: The work has been going excruciatingly slowly, but I finally finished sanding the guitar and got a sealer coat of shellac on it. I picked up some Sherwin-Williams conversion varnish today, and I'm very excited to try it out. It should build faster, cure faster, dry harder, and wear better then the nitro I've been using. Gotta love modern chemistry! I'm waiting on my dye to come from LMI, then I'll get started with the color coats in about two weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted October 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 (edited) Ok, I finally got a color sample I can live with. Took me 8 tries, but at least I feel like I earned it. Picture is a little out of focus, but the color looks about right, at least on my monitor. I've just finished the second coat on the guitar. I'm going to check it out once the paint dries... it may need one more coat, but I'm not sure yet. I've been testing the Sherwin-Williams stuff, and I like it a lot. Took me a bit of time to figure out how to spray it, as it's more prone to running than lacquer. The good news is that now I can get a coat to lie flatter than I was ever able to with lacquer. Also, it's ready to sand within about a half hour, and it powders nicely... no gummy mess like lacquer or shellac. I had to give my gun a real thorough cleaning before I could spray this stuff. Previously, I shot a lot of lacquer through it, and never did much for cleaning besides spraying a bit of thinner before I put the gun up. Well, there was built up lacquer in the gun as a result. The lacquer isn't soluble in Xylene, so it tends to flake off and get sprayed on the workpiece in little chips, causing fisheyes and other nasty stuff. I've been using shellac for the color coats. Lacquer isn't compatible with the conversion varnish, and I didn't want to commit to the vinyl sealer that Sherwin-Williams sells just yet. Overall, I'm pretty unhappy with the shellac. I tried a 1# cut at first because I didn't want to build up too much thickness and extend the cure time. That was a mistake. I simple could not get that stuff to spray without running. I ended up stripping the guitar and starting over with a 2# cut. The heavier cut is much less prone to running, but it really likes to orange peel. I suppose if I played with the gun for long enough I could get it to work better, but right now I'm not too happy with the shellac. I'm getting good results, but it has taken far more effort than I expected. I will probably use the SW vinyl sealer next time. Anyway, here is the basic plan (I'm hoping to finish step 4 by the end of the weekend): 1. Sand unfinished body to 320 grit, raising the grain a couple times in the process. 2. Spray two coats of 2# cut shellac as a sealer, sanding after each coat. 3. Spray two to three coats of tinted 2# cut shellac. 4. Spray two to three coats of 2# cut shellac as a barrier/sealer. 5. Let the shellac cure for a week, sand flat, then spray about 6 coats of conversion varnish (3 per day, sanding between coats). 6. Let the CV cure for a week, then buff and assemble. I shooting for about 6 coats of CV because the guy at Sherwin-Williams cautioned me that applying too many coats would risk cracking down the road. Also, the CV has nearly double the solids content of lacquer, so it should build fast. Well, that's about it. I should have a picture of the guitar ready for clear coats up tomorrow. The hardest part by far has been getting the correct dye mix and concentration. I never expected it to be so difficult. If anyone is interested, here is what I settled on using the metal acid dye concentrates sold by LMI: 5.33 parts red 4.66 parts yellow 2 parts black 1 part brown Mixed approximately 3 oz of dye per quart of 2# cut shellac. Edited October 13, 2007 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted October 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 (edited) Clear coats are done. It's got to sit for about a week, then I'll buff it out. These pictures are a little funny looking because of the flash, but they were the closest I could get to the real life colors. Everything I took in the sun ended up looking very washed out and orange. They're a little blurry (especially noticable in the figuring on the front), but they at least give the general idea. Front: Back: http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-clear-back.jpg Edited October 29, 2007 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 (edited) Buffed and waxed! I'm going to finish assembly tomorrow. I started buffing with micromesh but I couldn't get it to shine like I wanted. Don't really understand why because I haven't had a problem with micromesh before. I ended up polishing with 3M Finesse-It. I tried Perfect It afterwards, but it actually seemed to make the surface more cloudy, so I stuck with the Finesse It. Again, not really sure why that would be, but it may have just been the particular foam pad I was using. The colors are a little messed up and washed out in some of the shots because of the flash. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-front1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-front2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-front3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-back1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-back2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-back3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-buffed-close.jpg Edited November 11, 2007 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 Very, very nice work! I'm looking forward to seeing this one complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 Its looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 Thanks guys! Got the guitar assembled today. I still have a couple things to do, like making a cover for the control cavity. Once John Watkins reopens, I'm going to order a faux-bound flamed maple fingerboard and get to work on the neck. I'm really happy with how the body has turned out, but I think it will be amazing once I add the figured board and matching headstock. Anyway, my camera ran out of batteries in the middle of taking these pictures, so the pictures of the back will have to wait until tomorrow. the back looks really good, too. These are the best pictures I've taken yet of this guitar. The color looks fine on my monitor, and you can actually see some of the figuring in the wood. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-front2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-front3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-front4.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Great shape, lush finish, this scores 10/10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Thanks, though I'm not sure I would give it a 10/10. Maybe an 8/10 for the body. There are some flaws, but they're very, very minor. Most people wouldn't notice unless I pointed them out. Overall, this is the first finish I've done that rivals a factory job, and I'm very happy about that. Finishing has always been the hardest part of guitar building for me by far. The neck, on the other hand, scores a dismal 4/10 right now. I've discovered a low fret, for one. Someone way over-beveled the last few frets on the treble side. Also, I don't like the cheap-ish feeling satin lacquer job. Overall, it's just kinda junky feeling... but I aim to change that soon. Anyway, more pictures. It's difficult to show off the grain, especially in the back, because the surface is so reflective. I could have worse problems, though. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-front5.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-front6.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-front7.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close4.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close5.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close6.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close7.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-close8.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/tm-done-side.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 (edited) uh oh! aftermath neck work: fretboard removal fretboard removal fretboard removal fretboard removal fretboard removal headstock overlay headstock overlay headstock overlay sidedots Edited November 7, 2008 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foil1more Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Uh wow... what happened to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Uh wow... what happened to it? +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Looks like it was sprayed too thick too fast...the outer skin flashed and would not allow the inside to cure properly,then it was put into the sun too long... Just a guess...I also had one do that a while back from using 2 types of clearcoat.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Actually, I stripped it. Had some problems with cracking in the original conversion varnish finish, so I took it down to raw wood and refinished it in lacquer. Wes, how is your Exploder holding up? I'm thinking of finishing the neck in CV, but I'm a little wary after what happened to this guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted November 8, 2008 Report Share Posted November 8, 2008 I love it! Diggin' the Fender offset vibe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2008 I love it! Diggin' the Fender offset vibe. Yeah, I love the shape. I'm building another one in an SSH configuration. Finished spraying lacquer. Headstock 1 Headstock 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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