mikevirok Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 What should one use to fill small cracks in spalted maple tops or holes in burl tops? I think I remember someone mentioning using epoxy or something along those sorts. What is the best thing to use to reduce unsightly appearances under a clear finish? Is there anything that would work well with an oil finish layering over it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_48_Johnson Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 I think I would do a search for that two part resin/epoxy they coat bar tops with. It's hard as a rock, dries clear, and is very thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 Oil might be a problem as it won't take "the same" in the filler material as the wood unless your filler is just that - wood. You could infill slivers of wood made from scrap off the piece and clamp in with some Titebond. You could even compress the slivers to make them marginally thinner than the void, and then steam them to expand them a little to fill the gaps after you pop it in with a bit of Titebond or hide glue (it'll re-set after cooling). CA and wood dust for a clearcoat instrument would work as it would be glossy all over anyway. This is gut feeling or logic talking - not experience, mind! The epoxy idea sounds good because it would stabilise the soft spalted wood too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The royal consort Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 (edited) I remember someone here telling me the addage 'In filler and dust I put my trust'. IE filler mixed with a good chunk of appropriate sawdust.... That'd to burl holes.... spalt cracks.... Pass. the spalt I have at home is crack free so I'm ok on that.... although its bloody warped bad. Edited July 31, 2007 by The royal consort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 What should one use to fill small cracks in spalted maple tops or holes in burl tops? I think I remember someone mentioning using epoxy or something along those sorts. What is the best thing to use to reduce unsightly appearances under a clear finish? Is there anything that would work well with an oil finish layering over it? I would first check what oil finish you are using. Most of them are really a wipe on poly under an oil finish name and can be put over epoxy. However you may want a heavy layer of oil on the area first. Once the wood is a uniform color and the wood is sealed then fill the holes. If you sand through it will probably be the oil finish not the epoxy. Also you can add shellac between any two non mating finishing products if it is indeed a true oil finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 that would be 'in glue and dust i put my trust' - that makes filler!! but isnt whats needed here I use clear epoxy. Something like west sytems epoxy works well - cheap stuff wont work as well would avoid CA and test epoxy first to see what works best with an oiled finish - but really spalt needs more protection than that anyway so the epoxy is still a good idea!! or do thinned epoxy to harden it off and seal it - then black epoxy to fill the voids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 i have doubts about using spalted timber in a guitar again even though it looks pretty i used it as a top in one job and found it soft and dead. i just poured hepas of laquer on the top and luckily the worst of it was where the neck pocket was cut out guitar turned out great but i thought the spalted timber just half rotten well thats what it is isnt it - half rottend timber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Spalted maple is really variable though, with regards to its hardness. I have a bookmatched set that's hard as a rock, and another that I don't think I'll even try to use because it's so soft and crumbly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 i think you have to admit when using spalted maple that its not really going to enhance the tone. personally i still use it but i try and keep it to 1/4" at the thickest - with a good solid chunk of resonant wood underneath i dont think thats an issue. Also, you usually find hard and soft spots throughtout the maple so obvioisly try and get the harder spots towards the middle of the guitar to the bridge has more to hold onto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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