Cherryburst Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 On this page at StewMacs: http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/I-1110.html the distance for a line that goes thru the screw holes for a trad Fender (or Wilky) trem to the nut is supposed to be 25.25" (for a 25.5" Fender scale) Could it be assumed that for a 25" scale (PRS) that distance from post line to nut would be 24.75" ? (using the same trem that is) And for a 24.75" scale (Gibson) that distance would become 24.5" ? (in each case 1/4" less than the overall scale?) Is it a straight reduction, or does it change with the scale? (even though the movable saddles give lotsa play room) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 It would have to change with the type of bridge you are using, as well. Not all bridges are gonna have the distances from the mounting points to the saddle breaking points, the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I'm a complete noob so keep that in mind, and this isnt a direct answer to your question. One guitar building book I have says to adjust the saddles out as far as they can go towards the neck, and mount the bridge with the saddles at the scale length measurement. I installed a new bridge on a freinds bass and it worked perfectly. I'd be curious if anyone has an opinion on that method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I'm a complete noob so keep that in mind, and this isnt a direct answer to your question. One guitar building book I have says to adjust the saddles out as far as they can go towards the neck, and mount the bridge with the saddles at the scale length measurement. I installed a new bridge on a freinds bass and it worked perfectly. I'd be curious if anyone has an opinion on that method. That is pretty much the best method. A lot of times it is recomended though to only adjust 2/3-3/4 of the way out. Sometimes the high E string actually needs to move forward for proper intonation, so this still gives you some room to move. Where as all the way forward doesn't give you any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 The saddle never needs to move forward for correct intonation, assuming the bridge has been installed accurately. Some people like to save themselves a couple of millimetres wiggle room to accomodate human error, but strictly speaking a saddle never needs to move forward to compensate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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