JoeVictim Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 (edited) Here are some pics of where I started and after about 3 hours of sanding. http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t255/Jo.../Picture943.jpg http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t255/Jo.../Picture942.jpg Edited July 12, 2007 by Maiden69 only one pic per post per forum rules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibsonsg26 Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 lookin good. sanding can be a real pain. also in case you didnt notice you sanded through your sealer in a few places so it would be a very wise idea to seal it before you paint. on my first guitar i painted i ended up spending way more than i needed to on paint because i didnt seal it well enough and the grain was showing through. have you decided on what color you are oing to paint it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brewu22 Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 lookin good. sanding can be a real pain. also in case you didnt notice you sanded through your sealer in a few places so it would be a very wise idea to seal it before you paint. on my first guitar i painted i ended up spending way more than i needed to on paint because i didnt seal it well enough and the grain was showing through. have you decided on what color you are oing to paint it? He is not painting it, he wants to stain, and burst it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Noob question. Since I want to stain then burst the edges, I should be sanding to the white ( I guess this is the color after the sealer is gone)? Do I need to reseal it or will just staining be OK? I still got some sanding to do before I start anything but I would like to know so I can start getting everything this weekend. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Noob question. Since I want to stain then burst the edges, I should be sanding to the white ( I guess this is the color after the sealer is gone)? Do I need to reseal it or will just staining be OK? I still got some sanding to do before I start anything but I would like to know so I can start getting everything this weekend. Thanks in advance. well if you seal it again, then the stain wont stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Thankyou, that answers it. Now I dont have to worry about getting anything else. I'll post more pics once the body is fully sanded, stained, bursted, and reassembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 well if you seal it again, then the stain wont stain. Well, I now know exactly whay you are talking about. I got some pics of the body sanded that I'll post tonight, but now I gotta go back and really sand the places that wouldn't take the first coat of stain. Th3en I'll hit another coat of stain on it. I might take some pics of the places that wouldn't take the stain so other noobs know what to do...take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 You won't get the two places to match, any overspill onto the already stained areas will make it much darker. I believe that I already went over what you needed to do in the previous post. These things can't be rushed, take your time & you'll only need to do them once. Sand the body down to bare wood. Go over the stripped body with a damp rag & you'll see whether you've got any sealer left behind because it won't get darker.Sand->Rag, Sand->Rag... Do this untill you're left with a clean body & then go through the grits until it is nice & smooth & uniform...usually about 400-600 grit. Do a final pass with the damp rag to raise the grain & then a final pass with the last grit paper you used to smooth it off again. THEN you can stain. There are much more knowledgable finishers than me on here but unless anyone else chimes in, follow the steps above. Sanding & staining has been covered soooo many times, search the forums to see how it's supposed to be done. The main thing you need to do at the moment is remove ALL the sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Yeah, I really wasn't sure what was and wasn't filler at that point. Word of advice for anyone sanding, sand until you see orange woody shavings. then it's no longer filler. When filler sands off, it's shavings are chalky white. One more question, should I use a poly clear to protect it all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted July 10, 2007 Report Share Posted July 10, 2007 it depends what stain you're using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evtim Djerekarov Posted July 10, 2007 Report Share Posted July 10, 2007 Be careful with the sandpaper. If you have a sanding machine - use it. The finish should be sanded off gradually, and the wood must slowly begin to show up all over the surface you're sanding. It is incorrect to completely sand off the finish at one spot, and then at another. The whole surface should be sanded at once, using a block, not using much force to push it down. This way, you will not end up with uneven surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 10, 2007 Report Share Posted July 10, 2007 The one time I sanded down a guitar, a MIM strat, there's no way on earth I could have done it with a block. But I'm confused-- you say to use a machine, but then you say to use a block? Which is it that you're recommending? What kind of machine? A hand-sander in any size or shape will likely cause "uneven" sanding to a certain extent, and I dunno that a thickness sander is the way to go for removing finish. O_o. Not making any statements, just asking questions. My own sanding job sucked badly so I'm definitely not giving advice. Joe's on the other hand, is coming along relatively well despite a bit of uneveness-- doesn't seem like anything unexpected at least. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evtim Djerekarov Posted July 10, 2007 Report Share Posted July 10, 2007 A handsander I mean. I guess the most even(but time-consuming) effort will be when using a longer block with a sandpaper glued on it. The lenght of the block ensures that the surface will be reasonably even. It can be held horizontally(the axis of the neck), and vertically(across the body). The direction should be swapped while sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2007 it depends what stain you're using Olympic® Interior Oil Based Stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblaty Posted July 10, 2007 Report Share Posted July 10, 2007 I´m going to refinish my guitar too, but I´m just going to sand off the color coat.. hopefully it will be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 it depends what stain you're using Olympic® Interior Oil Based Stain. is that one of those stain & protect, all in one finishes designed for floors, stairs, handrails, furniture etc? If so, you're using the wrong type of stain for the effect that you're trying to achieve. Read through this article: http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge...e_guitar01.html it should give you a better idea of how to finish a guitar & the kind of products that you should be using. Once you've read through that, search the forums for finishing, staining, sunbursts, dyes etc...anything that is relivant to what you want to achieve. Then, if you're serious about getting a good finish & want to know what finishes will work together, buy Bob Flexnor's book on wood finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 is that one of those stain & protect, all in one finishes designed for floors, stairs, handrails, furniture etc? If so, you're using the wrong type of stain for the effect that you're trying to achieve. It's is for furniture and stuff, but it's not an all-in-one.I just did a second coat last night and the grain doesn't pop, but then again it's not a flame or quilted top either. should I not be using an oil-based stain? Is there a type of stain, that I can purchase at a home store, that is appropriate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 (edited) I did some additional research and found the stain I am using is good, just not as much grain will show. No biggie. After I blast it with the burst, I'll get a wipe on poly to cover it all up. More pics tonight... Thanks for all the help. Edited July 11, 2007 by JoeVictim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Pics!!! So, I don't know why there is the huge line there. I sanded it until I felt it was no longer safe to sand. Bad pic but, taken after a fresh coat of the green stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 has it got a veneer top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Sorry I'm late here!!! Almost all the Jacksons low end have a veneer top, like the one you have there! You have to sand out the stain again and block sand until you get the veneer out, I was going to post to carefully sand the sealer out because it is most likely a maple veneer, but you went thru in on top of the belly carve. You can keep it like that, but you have to do a thick burst to cover the area that the veneer is gone. I would prefer to sand it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Stupid Jackson! It was not advertised as a vaneer top. Now I gotta sand the whole thing over? This sucks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeVictim Posted July 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 (edited) Ok, what do you guys think about this? I'll sand it out, then get a water dye stain and have one more go. Edited July 12, 2007 by JoeVictim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 I dunno if you're really set on a transparent color or not, but you could always go opaque. I doubt with a good grainfill and primer coat that line would pose a problem. In either case, I'd bust out the finishing sander and blast that veneer off. The other option is to put another veneer top on it, I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibsonsg26 Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 why did jackson put a veneer on a solid color guitar did it have a transparent before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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