Davis guitars Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 (edited) well i started this build about a month ago and only had pics on my phone but now i have real pictures. i have to give alot of credit to the sorbera guys for this build it is somewhat based off of there gotm winner. plz tell me what u guys think this is my 2nd build and need and advice/ critisizim (spelling?) specs: 4 piece walnut back 3 piece maple top set neck walnut neck 24.75'' scale 1.5'' thick body .75'' thick neck cherry fret board ash binding, walnut pick guard, pick up rings and rear covers ruckus star at 14-11 frets hardware from a broken epiphone standard epiphone pick-ups i should probly also add that im not done shapeing the arch and neck its just rough as of right now. http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...visguitars9.jpg this is the 4 piece walnut back http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...isguitars11.jpg neckpocket and neck http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...visguitars3.jpg heres a shot of the front of the guitar Edited April 18, 2007 by Davis guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Looks good Davis, at 1½'' thick would you consider it a thinline LP? Do you plan to add binding on the body or neck? -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 needs some work, but you knew that. planning on a solid finish? Also, I feel like the horn might look a bit better if you pulled it in just a hair. Seems like it sticks out too much. More importantly, what's your fretboard thickness? I don't know what sort of truss rod you're using, but if it's dual action, getting your neck to .75" will require good planning so that your truss rod doesn't come out the back of the neck. I've done .625" before, but that was with a single action rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 (edited) needs some work, but you knew that. planning on a solid finish? Also, I feel like the horn might look a bit better if you pulled it in just a hair. Seems like it sticks out too much. More importantly, what's your fretboard thickness? I don't know what sort of truss rod you're using, but if it's dual action, getting your neck to .75" will require good planning so that your truss rod doesn't come out the back of the neck. I've done .625" before, but that was with a single action rod. well to tell you the truth i never really tought of that, would you suggest a thicker fret board and then routing a small channel in that? and i think im going with a solid finish i plan something like the gibson goddess. and vinny yeah i plan on adding an ash binding on the neck head stock and body and on the back of my neck as u can prolly see from the pics i made a mistake when cutting the tennon so it doest set flush Edited April 18, 2007 by Davis guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 ill probly use something like this http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Adj...es.html#details Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 I don't know what sort of truss rod you're using, but if it's dual action, getting your neck to .75" will require good planning so that your truss rod doesn't come out the back of the neck. I've done .625" before, but that was with a single action rod. Do you mean the neck depth with or without fingerboard? For instance, I've got my neck drawn up at right around 5/8th's at the thinnest part, not including a 1/4" fretboard that goes on top. (Making my total minimum thickness right around 7/8th's). Using the stew mac hot rod I should have just over 1/8th wood thickness remaining in the middle of the neck once the truss rod cavity is cut out. (the numbers in the previous sentence were rough estimates) Is this not enough? I believe I read that 1/8th was the necessary amount below the hot rod truss rod. Am I just asking for trouble here? I patterned the design after my telecaster neck, which I realize has a single action rod, but I thought I was following the 1/8th inch guideline properly. I was getting ready to cut my neck templates tomorrow. So I guess now would be a good time to get this figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 ha ha no stealing threads jp but my neck .75'' thick with out the fret board plus another .25'' with the fret board so im looking at about 1'' all together. and with a 13/32'' dept truss rod ill have about 3/8'' under the truss rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Check the hot rod thickness again. I don't remember it exactly, but I seem to remember it being more than 3/8." If it is 3/8' inches though and you have 1/8" under it and 1/4" of fretboard on top of it, before radiussing the board, you should be good. The trick here is making sure you make the truss rod no deeper than necessary, and not accidentally using a fretboard thicker than 1/4" and then still going for a 3/4" neck just to accidentally carve into the truss rod cavity. Keep a caliper handy at all times to check the thickness and depth of everything as you carve, route, etc. Also, you can keep just a hair more wood in the neck if you use a round nose bit for the length of the truss rod channel and then use a sharp chisel to square off the cavity where the end blocks of the truss rod go. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 thanks russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmarlin Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Check the hot rod thickness again. I don't remember it exactly, but I seem to remember it being more than 3/8." If it is 3/8' inches though and you have 1/8" under it and 1/4" of fretboard on top of it, before radiussing the board, you should be good. The trick here is making sure you make the truss rod no deeper than necessary, and not accidentally using a fretboard thicker than 1/4" and then still going for a 3/4" neck just to accidentally carve into the truss rod cavity. Keep a caliper handy at all times to check the thickness and depth of everything as you carve, route, etc. Also, you can keep just a hair more wood in the neck if you use a round nose bit for the length of the truss rod channel and then use a sharp chisel to square off the cavity where the end blocks of the truss rod go. peace, russ 7/16" depth actually. I was just using estimates in my post. OK, cool, I think I'm good then. And sorry about the thread jack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Check the hot rod thickness again. I don't remember it exactly, but I seem to remember it being more than 3/8." If it is 3/8' inches though and you have 1/8" under it and 1/4" of fretboard on top of it, before radiussing the board, you should be good. The trick here is making sure you make the truss rod no deeper than necessary, and not accidentally using a fretboard thicker than 1/4" and then still going for a 3/4" neck just to accidentally carve into the truss rod cavity. Keep a caliper handy at all times to check the thickness and depth of everything as you carve, route, etc. Also, you can keep just a hair more wood in the neck if you use a round nose bit for the length of the truss rod channel and then use a sharp chisel to square off the cavity where the end blocks of the truss rod go. peace, russ 7/16" depth actually. I was just using estimates in my post. OK, cool, I think I'm good then. And sorry about the thread jack! no problem it answered my question 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Lmii rods are 3/8" exactly, 1/16" smaller than the hot rod. Same price too, I think. Those are all I use. No sense in using anything thicker than necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 I may well try lmii next time around....But then the next one for me will be a bass. I'm looking forward to that one...My own design this time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 the lower bout (left side, when looking at the guitar upright like in the visible picture) is significantly larger than the lower right... which gives it an asymmetrical feel. Assymetry is actually quite cool a lot of the time, but in this case it's making the guitar look like you measured everything off-centre. You certainly don't "have" to address this issue, especially if it's by design. However, if you choose to, the guitar would still look quite nice with the oversized portion of the bout reduced to match more closely and create more symmetry. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 (edited) the lower bout (left side, when looking at the guitar upright like in the visible picture) is significantly larger than the lower right... which gives it an asymmetrical feel. Assymetry is actually quite cool a lot of the time, but in this case it's making the guitar look like you measured everything off-centre. You certainly don't "have" to address this issue, especially if it's by design. However, if you choose to, the guitar would still look quite nice with the oversized portion of the bout reduced to match more closely and create more symmetry. Greg alright thanks Edited March 4, 2008 by Davis guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Seriously reconsider selling this instrument. Even if it's going to a friend, there is still potential for it to haunt you further down the line. It's great that people want to get you to build them a guitar, but you need to say 'no' very firmly until you can build one which is going to knock their socks off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 (edited) thanks setch and i may take this into consideration im going to wait and see how it turns out, i may end up just burning it that seems to be the thing to do here on pg lol Edited April 18, 2007 by Davis guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 heh - there is a middle ground between selling and burning - that's something to shoot for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted April 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2007 (edited) alright Edited March 4, 2008 by Davis guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 its been awhile sence iv really posted on here but i have a some new pics of the project iv been really busy with school and work this last year that i really havnt had time to even think about guitars but im starting to get back on the horse.... http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...rs/guitar19.jpg http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...rs/guitar16.jpg http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...rs/guitar15.jpg http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u299/da...rs/guitar17.jpg heres it pretty much mocked up still need to put in truss rod and fret board then fret it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Kinda hard to see from the pictures, but it's looking good so far. Just remember to not mention my name if you do decide to sell it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 (edited) Kinda hard to see from the pictures, but it's looking good so far. Just remember to not mention my name if you do decide to sell it haha yeah that was awhile i go i deffinatly decided to keep this one, the only twist is that i used ur thinline idea i love how light it makes the lp edit: yeah i need to use a real camera instead of the camera on my phone...:s its not that great lol but thanks for the input Edited March 4, 2008 by Davis guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 edit: yeah i need to use a real camera instead of the camera on my phone...:s its not that great lol ...or at least hold your phone straight up & down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 edit: yeah i need to use a real camera instead of the camera on my phone...:s its not that great lol ...or at least hold your phone straight up & down... haha it was straight up and down:s pics always get messed up with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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