String Ferruls ... Recessed Or Not?

[mdismuke]

This is the first guitar I've built with a "string-thru" design, so I apologize in advance for what some may consider a "stupid question".

I've measured out the placement for my bridge and drilled my holes.

Then I countersunk the holes for the ferruls ...

Now for my question ...

The string ferruls I have are #0173 in the picture.

I know the #0196's are suppose to sit flush, but the #0173 ferruls have a flange and I'm not sure if these need to be flush as well.

So do I need to recess the flange too?

Or just recess the ferrul so the flange sits surface mounted above the body?

Thanks for the help!

[yahilltrade]

no there soposed to sit on the little lip.

so the answer would be no.

[Rick500]

I have several guitars with those (Carvin CT3M, Carvin DC145M, and a Parker PM-20). The Carvins have the flanges sitting on the surface; the Parker has the flanges recessed.

[JohnnyRed13]

Do the ferruls need to be on the top of the body as well as on the bottom?

[MCH]

If you are using the lipped ferrels on the back, I would flush mount. This way, there would be no protrusion. In fact I would do the same for the front also. I think asthetically it would be more pleasing.

just a thought.

[mdismuke]

Thanks to all who responded.

I test fit the ferruls and think they look just fine without having to recess them.

[manquesa]

I'd say it's more a matter of taste. Do whatever you think looks best.

[oz tradie]

I recessed a set of the flanged style ferrules yesterday.

Personally it'd drive me nuts having the flange poking out instead of rebated. But different strokes...........

Cheers,Stu

[Prostheta]

I agree with Oz, especially if you use black or gold ferrules - the finish will wear off 'em pretty quickly if they're not recessed at a guess. Practicality aside - either way is functional so the cosmetics are up to you.

[Drak]

1. They are SUPPOSED to sit proud of the wood.

They are made with that flange for a reason, flush fitting them would totally void that reason.

2. You run the risk of tearing the wood if you try to recess them, you're talking about tolerances so small, these things typically damn near touch each other on a Telecaster installation, that the wood would tearout between the flanges and the installation would look like ass.

And that would happen because you were installing them improperly to begin with.

If you want them to sit flush, then buy the flush fitting ferrules, it's a very easy thing to comprehend and is not up to conjecture, one is made for one installation, the other for the other type of installation.

And if YOU want to do things ass-backwards and against the accepted way things are done, that's great, I'm all for inventiveness and creativity and breaking the rules and all like that, but don't go recommending your way to anyone else without specifically telling them that your way is completely against the accepted rules and is a custom application done to please your own intellect and yours only.

THEN if they want to follow you, great. At least they know and understand what they're getting into.

In other words, don't go giving advice if you don't know how to give it properly, the people asking for advice don't know, that's why they're asking in the first place, and they are counting on someone who will give them the correct answer, not some custom modded whacky idea you came up with unless you specifically point out that that's what it is to begin with.

This answer was a no-brainer easy, and yet several people are popping off with no idea what the answer is, or adding their own custom applications.

This is not how you help people, it's how you screw them up.

[mdismuke]

1. They are SUPPOSED to sit proud of the wood.

They are made with that flange for a reason, flush fitting them would totally void that reason.

2. You run the risk of tearing the wood if you try to recess them, you're talking about tolerances so small, these things typically damn near touch each other on a Telecaster installation, that the wood would tearout between the flanges and the installation would look like ass.

And that would happen because you were installing them improperly to begin with.

If you want them to sit flush, then buy the flush fitting ferrules, it's a very easy thing to comprehend and is not up to conjecture, one is made for one installation, the other for the other type of installation.

And if YOU want to do things ass-backwards and against the accepted way things are done, that's great, I'm all for inventiveness and creativity and breaking the rules and all like that, but don't go recommending your way to anyone else without specifically telling them that your way is completely against the accepted rules and is a custom application done to please your own intellect and yours only.

THEN if they want to follow you, great. At least they know and understand what they're getting into.

In other words, don't go giving advice if you don't know how to give it properly, the people asking for advice don't know, that's why they're asking in the first place, and they are counting on someone who will give them the correct answer, not some custom modded whacky idea you came up with unless you specifically point out that that's what it is to begin with.

This answer was a no-brainer easy, and yet several people are popping off with no idea what the answer is, or adding their own custom applications.

This is not how you help people, it's how you screw them up.

Drak,

You're absolutely right.

After reading some of the responses, I could tell by the wording that most of what was said was "preference".

Oz's ferruls will look great, but it also looks like Oz has alot more room to work with.

I sorta figured the ferruls I had were not suppose to be recessed, but I thought I'd come here for some reassurance.

Once again, you guys didn't let me down.

Thanks again.

[RGGR]

MDISMUKE, how did you get those ferruls to line up so nicely. It looks darn perfect.

Standing for same issue on Axxion build and thinking about ordering #0196.

Edited January 7, 2007 by RGGR

[Drak]

I noticed that too.

Sweeet job on the ferrules.

[GGW]

Drak is right on this. Use the right ones for the application you want. I can say this from experience.

I bought the flanged ones and thought they'd look nicer recessed. I got the string holes to line up real nice and countersunk for the main part of the ferrules. When I drilled for the flanges, things were just a bit off visually. Maybe they were off to start with but couldn't be seen when appart or maybe the last hole drifted just a bit. I was using new bits in a very good drill press. You have basically no clearance between the flanges at this stage. I bevelled the holes a bit to help visually and did the finish. I masked out the holes, but I found that any finish was now blocking them out. I carved away the finish with an Exacto knife. I put in the ferrules, and when I gave the end one a tap through a piece of dowell, it caught the edge and burst out a piece of finish the size of a quarter. I did a fairly good repair and learned a lot. There may have been a better way to stage the process, but I won't try it that way again.

Your drilling looks very nice and accurate like it is.

[mdismuke]

MDISMUKE, how did you get those ferruls to line up so nicely. It looks darn perfect.

I used the template.

Seriously, it wasn't all that hard.

I measured up the bridge and mounted it (temporarily).

Then I used my drill press with an 1/8" bit and used the bridge itself as my "template" to drill my holes.

This was done as assurance that the holes would line up perfectly with the bridge when it was mounted as opposed to just marking where holes should be drilled.

I took my time and worked slowly.

I figured if the 1/8" holes were off a bit on the backside, I could maybe compensate some when drilling the larger holes for the ferruls.

I guess I just lucked out.

[Xanthus]

Heh, you had it easy, mdismuke. My guitar has a string-through TOM, no easy template available Draw a line, measure out 6 holes, grab a drill press, and pray, hahaha. I also bought the flanged ferrules, dunno why, and was very tempted to countersink them using a dremel. I suppose if it really bugs me, I can order the flush-mounted ones from StewMac. I already have to order some micromesh.

Just as a side comment, does anyone know of any local chains/shops that sell microfinishing sandpaper? I haven't been able to find any places for the life of me.

[mdismuke]

Heh, you had it easy, mdismuke. My guitar has a string-through TOM, no easy template available Draw a line, measure out 6 holes, grab a drill press, and pray, hahaha. I also bought the flanged ferrules, dunno why, and was very tempted to countersink them using a dremel. I suppose if it really bugs me, I can order the flush-mounted ones from StewMac. I already have to order some micromesh.

Just as a side comment, does anyone know of any local chains/shops that sell microfinishing sandpaper? I haven't been able to find any places for the life of me.

I was just kidding about any template being available.

Again, I just measured out the proper scale, mounted the bridge, and carefully drilled through the bridge itself so they would line up perfectly.

The bridge was my template.

BTW, you can find "microfinishing" sandpaper at any local auto-supply store, like Auto-Zone, Pep-Boys, etc ...

Good Luck

[Xanthus]

hahaha, I knew about the template part But I'd have loved to have the sheer convenience of being able to mount your bridge and drill the holes.

I'll check AutoZone again, I really REALLY don't trust the knowledge of the people down there, sometimes.

Edited January 9, 2007 by Xanthus

[mdismuke]

I've found the "micromesh" sandpaper at places like Walmart too.

Any place that has an automotive department should have it.

They usually keep it in the same section as the Bondo and touch-up paint.

Good luck.