Southpa Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 I don't see any options here. I'll bet a warp like that would immediately split lengthwise if you tried to clamp it flat. No amount of water would make it flexible enough and when the fibers dry out it would just happen again. Time to think of some unique form of demolition for our entertainment, Matt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Oh, he won't show it to us, he got razzed pretty bad last time he posted guitar burn pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Fine, if you decide to destroy it, go for it, but for god sakes atleast plane it first, and then resaw what you can still get off outta that top! then burn the body. I'd say resawing off a guitar's top and then burning the back is a form of demolition. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRossitter Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Or use it for target practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Or use it for target practice! a .50 cal anti aircraft gun should work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 For the sake of the guitar building gods, at least practice finishing BEFORE you burn it Matt! At least all that oil will make it burn better! ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heggis Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Finish it with cheap parts, then burn it on stage as a part of your number or something! Do it! Do it! Do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12056 Posted November 19, 2006 Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 Where's the flame maple plate you made to cover that hole? That thing was cool. heh, i traded him an old pedal i never use for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted November 19, 2006 Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 Take it to a hardwood dealer or a cabinet maker and run it through a wide-belt sander. It will make it perfectly flat, ready for the finishing sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I'd say plane the back, and spray sme sandng sealer while you figure out what to do with it, at least i think it would be a bit more protected from humidity changes and temperature changes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 (edited) Don't destroy it yet. I still for the life of me can't figure out how you got that much warpage out of even close to dry wood, and that is especially odd because it is laminated wood. NOTE; If this is how much stability laminating provides. Every last one of us that hold to the belief laminating improves stability are surely mistaken(that includes myself). Wetting the surface of the wood and clamping is not going to solve anything at this thickness. It works when you have thinner wood that is trying to aclimate a few percent(mainly a surface imbalance vs the core of the wood). Heating or bending at that thickness is also not an option(as that could provide the only real solution if that is how the wood has dried). You should place it on a flat shelf with a couple half inch sticks under it. Give it 6-12 months(If it is as wet as I suspect you will have to wait at least that long for it to stabalize). Before you put it away seal all the end grain with a wash coat of shellac(just a light coat around the edgees). Don't seal the entire body unless you want it to take years to dry. When you go back to look it over. Think about surfacing it flat or the concave option(which is pretty cool). Don't even think about surfacing till it has fully dried. You should take a few good pictures of the grain orientaion(top set and body). This would be a good lesson in what can happen when wood is not stabalized. As well as show the limitations of added stability from laminations(that top is 3/4"?). Peace,Rich P.S. The wood may flatten out somewhat as it becomes fully dry. Kinda depends on the internal vs shell compression. If you sand it now and it keeps moving maybe even the other direction you could be worse off than it is now. It may be that the wood was even case harded during kiln drying and that piece is just working it out(you may have trapped the moisture on the tops side, and surfaced the back allowing the moiture only one direction to wick). Edited November 20, 2006 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I would throw it through a thickness sander using many light passes back and front (so the feed rollers don't "de-cup" it before sanding) and see if it cups further a few weeks down the line. Then burn it if it did. Actually, I take that back. Soak it in petrol overnight then burn it whilst putting it through a thickness planer!! That would be so awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I don't use fire much anymore, a nearby cinderblock is a fine device to get my bodies down to W.O.D.-edible size. Little guy has to eat ya know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Mmmm. Guitar snacks. Did you get a fondant centre or was it nutty inside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I don't use fire much anymore, a nearby cinderblock is a fine device to get my bodies down to W.O.D.-edible size. Little guy has to eat ya know... Well that project deserved to be destroyed. Look at that huge gap in the body joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 I have the rear shot too, which shows the point of impact hit, but well, ...this IS a family oriented site and all like that... ...I gotta show these shots every once in awhile to keep the 'rep' strong y'know... ...and to give soapbarstrat something to biyatch about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 ...I gotta show these shots every once in awhile to keep the 'rep' strong y'know... Oh shoot, You don't have to keep showing pics. We all realise how often you blow it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 You got that right, pilgrim. But when I do get it right, the clouds part and a huge beam of ethereal sunshine envelopes me in it's warmth and I'm transported to a place I cannot even describe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 But when I do get it right, the clouds part and a huge beam of sunshine envelopes me and I'm transported to a place I cannot even describe. DISNEYLAND Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 But when I do get it right, the clouds part and a huge beam of ethereal sunshine envelopes me in it's warmth and I'm transported to a place I cannot even describe. The back of a Volkswagen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Here kiddies, is a prime example why ebay "luthier" wood sellers cant be trusted (generally), and long term timber merchants who specialise to the luthier industry, but are a few bucks more, can (generally). Matt, stop trying to save a few dollars. Here is ONE MORE example why you shouldnt be advertising yourself as a business. Its one more stuff up that anyone with google and your name, can find within ten seconds. Hard to get a reputation with that history... http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&...earch&meta= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 ...and to give soapbarstrat something to biyatch about... Well, if a middle-aged man is trying way too hard to impress teenage boys, I'll just have to hope the authorities show up in time, if it ever "pays off". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Ahhh, I feel much better now, the tired old dog and pony act finally made it to town. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desopolis Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 wow.. this thread got serious fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 wow.. this thread got serious fast. Oh no, we are just poking fun at Drak. He isn't really a Molester that can't build a guitar body without it turning into a train wreck. He makes really nice guitar bodies. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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