sexybeast Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Anyone come up with a jig or way to keep edge glued boards perfectly flat in the clamps? I'm sure there's a simple solution to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Are you referring to gluing together something like a body blank? If so, what I do is use 4 bar clamps, 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom. I set it up so that the bar is flat against the wood being glued(it helps to put wax paper or something simular between the wood and bar to avoid gluing your clamp to your body) and the pressure from the bar on both sides keeps the body blank from warping as it glues. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexybeast Posted July 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 That's exactly what I mean. I have three bar clamps, but only two allow me to put the wood all the way down to the bar. The other one is a quick grip type. Maybe I need anothe bar clamp or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaxination Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 you can never own too many clamps!!! i use bessey clamps (just glorified bar clamps) to pull the edges together and cam clamps to clamp the top and bottom along the center line (using wax paper as suggested by thegarehanman). i also use a nice flat piece of quality ply under the bottom of the pieces of wood i am gluing together. the ply is about the length of my wood pieces and about 2/3 - 3/4 as wide. it helps apply the pressure evenly. oh, btw, i like to use a lot of clamps, but that's just me. anyway, just the way i personally like to clamp up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Totally the same as thegarehanman. Two sash cramps, and four F-screw clamps. The greaseproof paper is a must also. Much better than chiselling MDF caul scraps off your glue seepage lines! The best thing is that the sash cramps I have are so large, you can pick up the glued piece by the bars and lean it against a wall whilst it's curing. Then you can get on with the next set :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 The first thing is to have perfectly smooth and square edges. If the edges aren't square, they will slide around more. Then, as mentioned, alternate your clamps top and bottom. Tighten them down SLOWLY and evenly, keeping things aligned as you go. Don't overdo the clamping force. There are a lot of ways to clamp accross the joint to keep the edges aligned. You can use dowels or biscuits in the joint to prevent any shifting, but you have to plan ahead so they won't end up anywahere that will become visible. You can also go fancy and use four-way clamps like these: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=321 (Nice for doing top laminates too ... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 I cheat slightly sometimes. The jointer gives as true a perpendicular planed edge as it's setup allows (readjust with set-square every time I pop it back on the bench) but even a 100th of a degree can cause (I forget the true word for this) hydroplaning of surfaces under the pressure exerted by clamping for glue. I find you get it less if you lightly rough edges with 80 grit, dampen with a cloth, rough with 120 and then lightly apply glue to both edges, spreading with a credit card for consistency. Waiting a minute before applying both edges and clamping seems to cause a little less shifting when bringing up to pressure. I have no scientific proof of why I do this, or any evidence to say it's better than any other method. It works for me on porous wood like mahogany, and it doesn't seem to cause excessive buildup of glue line. As with anything, your mileage may vary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarageRocker Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 You can also go fancy and use four-way clamps like these: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=321 (Nice for doing top laminates too ... ) I have those clamps, they're great for any edge gluing and IMO well worth the money. But I don't consider them fancy at all. You should see some industrial clamping systems out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs man Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 (edited) I use 4 bar clamps on a body blank with 2 on top and 2 on btm. I try and not use a lot of glue just enought to see a little glue line when you clamp things togeather. use dowls is a good idea to line things up with out them slidding all over. good luck hope that helps. Edited August 2, 2006 by prs man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrax Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 you can take a little finish brad nail, and hammer it in one side, and snip the head off with some wire cutters, just leave a little bit sticking up, and when pressed to the other side it will not go anywhere, also good with fingerboards on necks. dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 you can take a little finish brad nail, and hammer it in one side, and snip the head off with some wire cutters, just leave a little bit sticking up, and when pressed to the other side it will not go anywhere, also good with fingerboards on necks. dave Yep thats what I do. Just make sure you don't put the nail in a spot that is going to be carved or routed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted August 6, 2006 Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 I use 4 pipe clamps, 2 bar clamps, and 2 I don't know what you call them clamps to glue body halves together (might be overkill but I never had a problem with a glue line). To keep the two halves even, I use C-clamps, one one each end of the halves Like so: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j140/hyd...an/0d517671.jpg After removing from the clamps, I run the body through the thickness planer on each side to smooth it all up. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 6, 2006 Report Share Posted August 6, 2006 Heh. I'm so jealous of people who have a thickness sander/planer big enough to take a glued up body....mine takes halves so it's out with the plane and sanding afterwards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 About 4-5 bar clamps. It doesnt really matter to me if the pieces dont line up exactly becuase it goes through the drum sander any way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 you can take a little finish brad nail, and hammer it in one side, and snip the head off with some wire cutters, just leave a little bit sticking up, and when pressed to the other side it will not go anywhere, also good with fingerboards on necks. +2 And lots of clamps and careful inspection douring clamping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexybeast Posted August 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 Wish I'd have known the brad nail idea sooner. Perfect idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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