MP63 Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Have you thought about a headplate? Thay are thicker than a veneer and will add lots of strength to the headstock. Ebony makes a great contrast to the MOP. You can still glue it to the peghead and have the nut area just abit deeper for the nut. Check LMI and see what they got. Many places have the wood and the can sand them for you. The guitar is looking great. Do you have pictures of the neck pocket? I may have missed that. Thanks for the pictures and documentation. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 (edited) [Hi Mike How thick is a head plate?I take it you mean that the machine head nuts are countersunk into the headplate. I don't think that look is that good but thanks for the thought. I have already fitted a 2mm blackwood venir to match the guitar top so its too late to change in anycase. I had thought of a black ebony venir as the inlays realy jump out at you and the inlay work is much easier to do as the filler is undetectable. In the end I went for the matching wood. I hope to do the stain with dark then sand back trick to make the most of the grain in the venir. What I need to ensure is that the total thickness of the headstock is 15mm Max . Anything thicker and I will have problems getting the collers on the machine heads to screw down. I took a pic of the neck pocket http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir.../neckpocket.jpg It went okay, there is a little tare out where the pickup selector wiring channel comes out. It won’t be a problem though. The body trimmed to the template http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...blanktrimed.jpg the inlay pocket cut out with the inlay next to it http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...exttocutout.jpg The inlay glued in with 5min epoxy. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...aftergluing.jpg and now after sanding back I grainfilled the venir , also shown is the added filler around a bit of the inlay. It was just a tiny bit and what I do is squirt a bit of superglue in and dab on some fine sawdust. When sanded back you wont see it. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...grainfiller.jpg next is to read up on the stain technique. Kev Edited April 29, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 I dn't get why you did the whole thing with the saw dust colored epoxy step??? Cause when you finally inlaid the piece, that epoxy was gone,a nd I can't think of having any reason for it to be there in the first place? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Looks like it was to fill in the area between the T and the S . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 yeah, that part made sense to me, but then why'd he put it on the outsides as well??? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 I think it was collarteral damage, you and I both know that epoxy can get messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 I think it was collarteral damage, you and I both know that epoxy can get messy. I think you guys are viewing the pic in the post that is of the inlay sitting on the bench. All the epoxy on the outside got scrapped off . Its no big deal. The reason for the sawdust in the epoxy is to colour it so any non perfect joins have the wood coloured epoxy in them. Also verhoevenc you are correct about the bit in the middle. look at the pics of the inlay insitu. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Headplates are veneers, but thicker. They run about 2-3mm. I think you put one on already. They really add strength to the wood where the grain runs out. It helps resist the breaking of the head you were talking about. It looks nice no matter what you've put. Great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 (edited) I have finished the fret job. it went well but I must admit I take my time. I do 3 to 4 frets at a time ,let them set for 30min then do some more. I still have to dress them but i have found that the more prep workyou put into the fert board the less dressing you have to do. So for those that are about to do their first fret job ; Make sure that the fretboard is radiused evenly and that the radius goes evenly to the edge. No rounding.Clean the slots out and make sure thy are deep enough for the fret tang. I put a very small amount of wood glue on the tang. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir.../glueonfret.jpg Then I press in the fret. I have made a fret press similar to the stew mac design. You can tap them in with a soft hamer no problem, tap from the ends towards the center.Dont flat spot the crown of the fret by hitting them realy hard. If they dont seat by a firm tap then the slot depth is too shellow. My press in action http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...0/fretpress.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir.../glueonfret.jpg After doing a few frets I seat them under pressure in the vice using the radius block.You don't need to do this but I am in no hurry. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir.../neckinvice.jpg half way http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ginprogress.jpg Finished Oh yeah check out the indispensible fret end trimer from stew mac. Its to trim the tang off the fret end for the binding.I have done the triming with a file and snips but this makes it much quicker and does a better job. Fret ends trimed http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...jobcomplete.jpg So now I will be grain filling the neck wood and working out what to do with the headplate. Cheers Edited May 4, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 (edited) A little bit more work done .The headstock was grain filler and sanded. Then a light stain. I rounded the edges of the body with a 5mm bit. I resisted making a waist cutout ala strat as its not realy in the sprit of a LP Jr. it would have been more comfortable to play though. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...dgesrounded.jpg Next is to play more guitar. Too much time has been spent in the shed... Edited May 5, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Looking good, Thirdstone. Slow and steady wins the race! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 I rounded the edges of the body with a 5mm bit. I resisted making a waist cutout ala strat as its not realy in the sprit of a LP Jr. it would have been more comfortable to play though. I'm having trouble deciding this one too...I say, if you're more comfortable with the carved back, you should go for it. It's not visible from the front, so the LP Jr look is preserved --and it's YOUR guitar. Mine is going to be pretty thin, only 35 mm, so I think I can get away without the carve. But it's tempting, if only because carving is the most fun part of building, I think... Like that headstock too! Next is to play more guitar. Too much time has been spent in the shed... This is a big problem for me too...in fact, after I finish my current projects, I'm going to have to put building on hold for a while... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Yeah I am still thinking about the waist cut out but I proberbley will go without. Something about suffering for your art comes to mind. The most uncomfortable guitar I have played is a telecaster (except from a V) yet this is the guitar that you always see in a studio shot of some legend Gibbo player or a modern metal player. It must be something about being uncomfortable putting you in a different zone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_the_damned Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 looking really good Thirdstone. love your fret press mole grips are wonderful tools huh? I can't wait to see this one all put together. I love your headstock inlay! Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Okay so now I have finished the headstock and I have oiled the neck. The headstock has a light oil based stain that is a mix of ceder 1 part,and golden oak 2 parts.i tried the "stain with dark , rub back , stain with light tint method" on a test piece but it didn't bring out the flame in the grain any better that a straight tint. After tinting and waiting for it to dry a day I applied the danish oil to the headplate. It caused a bit of a problem as it pulled out the tint a bit .I could see from the stain on the oiled rag. After a short panic attack I continued to apply the oil being careful not to rub too hard. I think it went ok. After allowing the oil to dry I applied a another light coat , this time no stain on the rag so it must have got locked in under the first coat. No that its dry there are no problems I was toying with the idea of staining the neck but in the end I just applied some danish oil. I am realy glad I held off with the tint as the oiled neck now has a realy nice chocolate look to it.Not a great photo but a bit rushed. neck oiled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Looks great so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Nice project - and a nice inlay job too,especially given the pale background! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campylobacter Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Very, very nice inlay. Extra bonus points for such a neat job on a light-coloured wood. The only way that would be more impressive would be if it were inlaid in maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Very, very nice inlay. Extra bonus points for such a neat job on a light-coloured wood. The only way that would be more impressive would be if it were inlaid in maple. Thanks Mate. I had a look at your web site, I can beleive the similaritys between our guitar building, same year, same book ,same initial projects. The only differance is that you have gone on to build acoustics and guitars for others. Are there any pics of the work you have done. I have even made a mini guitar LP shape . For the scale length I got my , at the time 8Y/O son to hold a strat and his left hand fell at the 5th fret so that the scale lg I made. Same as your mini. I have also made a guitar out of the left overs of projects. Rgs Kev Ps Good luck in the world cup, I don`t think you will meet up with Australia and Aussi Guus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Very, very nice inlay. Extra bonus points for such a neat job on a light-coloured wood. The only way that would be more impressive would be if it were inlaid in maple. Thanks Mate. I had a look at your web site, I can beleive the similaritys between our guitar building, same year, same book ,same initial projects. The only differance is that you have gone on to build acoustics and guitars for others. Are there any pics of the work you have done. I have even made a mini guitar LP shape . For the scale length I got my , at the time 8Y/O son to hold a strat and his left hand fell at the 5th fret so that the scale lg I made. Same as your mini. I have also made a guitar out of the left overs of projects. Rgs Kev Ps Good luck in the world cup, I don`t think you will meet up with Australia and Aussi Guus. Heh. That's kinda cool! Although I've not built that many for others, not yet; one proper electric, one scrap, but I've got a bunch lined up/almost finished for other folks now. All of them friends. Also, that Melvyn dude has a lot to answer for! As for the acoustics, it took me literally years of reading about it to pluck up the courage to just go do it. If you want to build one, go for it. It's different, but not THAT hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 To make a belly / waist cut or not ??? not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 To make a belly / waist cut or not ??? not sure. I think you should, just make sure it doesn't show from the front. But why not glue a few pieces of plywood together (for the thickness) then shape a prototype with the belly carve in there? Wouldn't take you very long to do, and you'd really get the feel of what it's going to be like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 (edited) More work done. This is realy getting in the way of guitar playing,looking forward to finnishing it. I got the control cavitys started. It was nice to meet up with the pre routed wiring channels which were done prior to gluing the top on. rear cavitys I am only having one volume and one tone. Even the tone control is an extravigance in my opinion. I have started the staining of the top.This is a first for me as I wanted to do a rub on burst with stains. I couldnt find a good tutorial so after a bit of hesitation I just jumped in. First though I grain filled and put on some sanding sealer. top prestain Then I covered all the top with the first stain, a light Gold teak I don't have a pic of that. Then I added some Cedar to the gold teak,just a bit 3:1 teak to cedar.and ran around the edges. second stain coat Then some more cedar so not its about 2:1 third stain coat And for the forth stain I added more cedar so its about 1:1 The stains I have been using are oil based stains as thats all I can get around here. What I need to know is can I shoot a coat of white shellac over to seal it. If I spray nitro or oil the top as it is I think the stain will bleed out a bit. I'll wait a bit to see if ny more stain is required but a the moment I might leave it at that. Cheers.. I have just seen the photo and the lower transition looks more obvious than it is in real life. That maybe due to the side light from the window doing tricks. Edited May 11, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_the_damned Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 that looks lovely! The grain in that wood is really nice and I think you've done it a lot of justice with the very lightly stained burst. lovely work! Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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