AlGeeEater Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 (edited) Here's my latest project (I'll actually finish this one unlike my tele ) for ya's. Specs:1-3/4" African mahogany body3/4" Curly maple topMahogany set neckIndian Rosewood fretboardGolden Age overwound humbuckersGrover locking tunersTrapezoid MOP inlaysTop dyed black, sanded back red and the neck and body will be sprayed with trans-red lacquer buffed to a high glossWhite body/fretboard/headstock bindingHere's all the woods, now i'm just waiting on the templates, as usual. The body blank weighs a hefty 13 pounds, and the neck blank just over 5 pounds I'm really disappointed in the neck blank. It's -very- rough cut, and I paid 55 bucks for it. For that kind of money, I expected it to be planed flat and ready for action, but I guess not. The neck blank cost almost as much as the body blank. Chris Edited June 29, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humbuckr Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 The body blank weighs a hefty 13 pounds, and the neck blank just over 5 pounds I'm hollowing out mine after I hoisted around the mahagony blank. Sounds like a great guitar. I'm doing a carve top (first project) as well. any tips on how to shape it? -- Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Algee, a couple things: 1. Is that a big crack in your body blank? Is the wood dry enough? 2. Why are you using locking tuners on tiltback-headstock, hardtail instrument? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) Carl, have you seen this? http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16098 Crafty, no that's not a huge crack, it's just a real looong dark strip of grain. I'll try to get a closer picture of it so you can see what I mean, but it's not a crack. I don't think Larry would send me a blank with a crack in it, and I'd send it right back for a new one if it did. Also, i'm not using 'locking tuners' per se, just the grover 'locking tuners', they're not sperzel locking tuners or anything. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,...r_Machines.html Edited April 1, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtjdx Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Those are some nice pieces of mahogany you've got there. That sucks about the blank not being planed. I just got a maple blank that was unplaned and unjointed. Lazy eBayers. I'll be watching this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Also, i'm not using 'locking tuners' per se, just the grover 'locking tuners', they're not sperzel locking tuners or anything. Uh...so the Grover locking tuners aren't locking tuners, they're locking tuners? Anyway, I use the Grovers on all of my guitars (I like the Grover minis, even for my 3x3s, don't like huge buttons), I refuse to use anything but locking tuners--no more string winding, so worrying about the wraps slipping, easier to string up too. I'm tempted to try the Wilkinson Ez-loks too. Didn't see what happened to your tele --hope this one goes all the way for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) I'm with Mickguard on this one. I have sperzel locking tuners on my strat, and I wouldn't use anything less! String up is so much easier. Locking tuners, they aren't just for tremelos anymore. Good luck with your build algee. Looks like it should be a sweet axe. Edited April 1, 2006 by jer7440 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth guitars Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 The Grover locking tuners are very good. They are very easy to load and much lighter than the Sperzels. BTW - we sell neck blanks as well and they will come sanded smooth and not rough cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Algee, looks like a great project. Looking forward to seeing the progress. A word of caution from experience. I put a 5/8" top on my LP build because I got a great buy on some flame maple from a local supplier and that was the max thickness we could get from the board. A 5/8" top is cutting it very close to get a typical LP carve and not carve or sand through to the mahogany below. My carve came out great, but when I was sanding up through the grades, I sanded through the maple at both sides of the waist. Annoying because I couldn't then proceed with my intended amber finish. Current finish plan is to do a burst to hide the sand throughs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 5/8s" should be fine, that leaves an 1/8" thickness once you've done the 1/2" carve. Your binding should conceal the thin edges of the maple. 1/2" is doable if you don't mind slightly shallow carve, and you're extra careful around the edges... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) Hey thanks for all the replies and encouragement! Mickguard - What I mean is they're not locking tuners with thumbscrews or locking thing-a-ma-bobs mammoth - thanks for the offer, but I got the board smooth this weekend. I really had no work to do today, so I went at the board with my planes, surform and sandpaper and it's perfectly flat. I love working with my hands It would have been nice to have a perfectly flat neck for that money, but i'll take it in stride. John - I was planning on using a 5/8" top, but I think i'm going to swing the money for a 3/4" top. I wan't to leave about 1/4" on the side of the top, which would give me 2", hence a typical LP. I know Setch used a 5/8" top on his LP, and I could too probaly but i'll most likely end up telling Larry I want a 3/4" one I'm STILL waiting for the templates, I haven't gotten an e-mail from Ronny on the shipping yet Chris Edited April 1, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Algee, if Setch says that 5/8" is safe, then its safe. Must have been "operator error" on my part. Anyway, now I get to try a burst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Haha, it wasn't Setch who changed my mind; I knew it would work. I'm just thinking of getting the 3/4" for the sake of carving the top pretty deeply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 Mickguard - What I mean is they're not locking tuners with thumbscrews or locking thing-a-ma-bobs Yeah, I knew that, just funnin' witcha... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 (edited) Sweet... I just gotta e-mail Ronny and ask him if the neck width is including the binding or not. If any of you guys know, let me know it will save me an e-mail! Edited June 26, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feylya Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 Why not just measure the section of the neck below the nut? That should indicate if binding is taken into consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 I can't imagine it'd be the without-binding width, since most people will either add a "ledge" after the fact, or reduce the width of the fingerboard itself to accomodate binding; the template seems to be for full neck, not fingerboard. But, as mentioned, measuring is the way to go. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 (edited) Well, the neck width is pretty much the same as the tele templates i've got except the tele gets a little thicker as it goes down the neck. I'll e-mail him and measure. Edited April 6, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 If you go to the Gibson site and look at the Pauls, it gives certain dimensions including the width of the neck at the nut and 12th fret. You can compare those to your templates. For example, an LP Standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 I never thought about that, thanks john!! I'll compare them with the templates now. I've got the body 3/4 cut out now, I will probaly have it rough cut out by tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 Simple test: If the nut width is 43mm give or take 1mm, it includes binding. Frankly, I'm certain it includes binding anyway - it's a *neck template* not a fretboard template. Tell you what, I'm so sure, go ahead and cut it. If I'm wrong, I'll shout you a new neck blank... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 (edited) Yep, it's 42mm across the nut, but i'll take you up on that free neck blank either way. Here's the blank before diggin' into it: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC02122.jpg Rough cut: Edited June 26, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 (edited) Got the body routed flush today. Next on the agenda is cutting the mortise, doing the control cavity and possibly hollowing out a few parts of the body. Oh yeah, the channel for the wires and the control knob too! Before all that i've got to do a ton of hand sanding, despite how good it looks already. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC02129.jpg See ya guys! Chris Edited June 26, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2006 (edited) Here's a shot of the back, wetted with a damp rag. Sorry about the crap lighting, makes everything orangish. I'm diggin' the black strip of dark grain in the back. I've also changed my mind on the finish, i'm going to be dying the top red, scraping the binding and keeping the mahogany natural. It should look killer with the black pore filler. Edited June 26, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 (edited) Got the top in today Now I can finally get some real work done on this sucker! It's hard to take pics of the flame, but it looks a ton better in person of course. Also the bass side doesnt really look flamed but the camera was at an angle and it's still a little rough sawn in areas. When i get it sanded flat i'll take better pics! Edited June 26, 2006 by AlGeeEater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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