Which Tool For This Task?

[uglogirl]

Sorry to ask the obvious but the link to the tool list is broken

I am starting my first totally from scratch built solidbody soon but I might need a few tools. Which is the best tool for thinning a body blank to the right thickness... say 1 3/4" to 1 1/2" (I'm putting a 1/4" top on it). I am guessing a plane or belt sander? Also... which type of plane would I need to do the edges of the body prior togluing the bookmatched sides together? I've ordered a book from Amazon but it's not here yet!

thanks,

Uglogirl

[unclej]

for thinning the body blank a surface planer or surface sander is the best tool. they're pretty expensive so a lot of first timers contact local cabinet shops which are usually open to surfacing a body blank for a nominal fee. i've actually got a local musician that i trade work on his guitars and amp for surfacing.

for joining edges an edge jointer is a great tool but if you have a good table saw with a new sharp blade you can do a good job. there are those that use hand planes but i've never been that comfortable with them so i use my 10" table saw.

[Supernova9]

Question for those more knowledgeable than myself: Can't you use a router (obviously with a template bit and a machined straight edge) to joint surfaces?

As for thicknessing, search for Setch's Router Thicknessing jig - very useful if you don't have access to a surface planer etc, basically it holds the bit a fixed distance above a workpiece - allowing you to trim it down to the right thickness

[Marzocchi705]

Also some hand planes have a slight curve to the blade. If you are going to use them its VERY easy to tilt the plane on the edges, giving you an off-square edge.

Thickness sanders are suposedly better, i would agree because when i thicknessed mine in a surface planer i had to belt sand little ripples that were left by the planer out.

[fryovanni]

I would recommend the local cabnet shop route. Mainly because you have a 1/4" to remove from the body. If you have them plane it then surface sand it to 80 on top and 180 on the back side you will save lots of time and effort (you could also have them surface sand the top set if it needs it). They can run the edges through a jointer and have you extreamly close in a few seconds. A hand plane is a wonderful tool if you have it set up correctly and are skilled at using the tool. Sanding with a belt sander and long blocks will work (but its a lot of work, and is hard to keep as accurate). Router works for removing thickness, but requires a setup similar to what Setch uses, and touch up sanding (I have an overhead router table myself and it works great). I have a jointer and thickness sander and they work great (but require space and are spendy). If you are planning to build enough to justify the cost and have the space large tools are great. If you are looking for a versatile tool to get the job done well but not as fast. Practice with good hand planes. Maybe your wood supplier could offer some of these services when you purchase the wood. It adds a little cost but can be very cost effective in the end.

Peace, Rich

[uglogirl]

I would recommend the local cabnet shop route. Mainly because you have a 1/4" to remove from the body. If you have them plane it then surface sand it to 80 on top and 180 on the back side you will save lots of time and effort (you could also have them surface sand the top set if it needs it). They can run the edges through a jointer and have you extreamly close in a few seconds. A hand plane is a wonderful tool if you have it set up correctly and are skilled at using the tool. Sanding with a belt sander and long blocks will work (but its a lot of work, and is hard to keep as accurate). Router works for removing thickness, but requires a setup similar to what Setch uses, and touch up sanding (I have an overhead router table myself and it works great). I have a jointer and thickness sander and they work great (but require space and are spendy). If you are planning to build enough to justify the cost and have the space large tools are great. If you are looking for a versatile tool to get the job done well but not as fast. Practice with good hand planes. Maybe your wood supplier could offer some of these services when you purchase the wood. It adds a little cost but can be very cost effective in the end.

Peace, Rich

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I was afraid it would be hard yes. Luckily the place I got my wood from, internetlumber, is able to surface to th ethickness I need at a reasonable cost. I guess that is treally the best course since I will be building complete guitars very infrequently. thanks for the advice everyone.

Uglogirl