i-j-c Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Hi, I took the plunge and decided to make an ES335 type. The progress is here on photobucket: Photoalbum So from the start here's the material used: Sustain block and sides - spruce Top and Back: Mahogany/Poplar/Mahogany laminate (3.5mm) Neck: 3piece glued Mahogany with scarf joint headstock. Hardware: Chrome. Glue used - cascamite (powder glue mixed with water - usually used in boat building so it's damn strong) OK. Well, I spent about 2 weeks drawing it out...measuring, scaling. OK..enough of that time to start cutting wood. The spruce I had was two legths: 6ft x 5.5" x 1.12 (inch and 1 eigth)". I did intend to bend some wood..but I'm going to do that next time. 1. Sustain block. As you can see from some of the pics...I made an mdf template of the sustain block. I then profiled with a router these out of the spruce. Basically two either side - so I ended up cutting two out of each 5" width...if you know what I mean. Becasue I used a router there was no sanding...I then glued 4 pieces together to create a 4.5" (width) sustain block which runs the length of the body and just over 2" thick at the highest point. 2. Sides. OK, time for something different. I ripped the wood width into 3 equal widths of 1.75" I then glued at opposite grain direction 6 pieces...so they were 1.75" thick and 6.5" wide...this gave a total body width of 18". As you can see from the pics...using the body template I made I routed the outer surface of the sides. I then plaed each top and bottom surface...and cut out the large inner bit so I was left with a side...I repeated this for the other side. the thickness for the sides is .25" SO I am now left with a sustain block, two sides. The ends of teh sustain block are 1.75" which is the same as the sides. I then used part of the inner cut out of the sides to make some securing blocks for the ends of the sides. I then carefully drilled the sides to be joined to the sustain block and put a dowel in. I'll just add here that I don't have too many photo's of some of the process - I keep forgetting to snap a pic as I beaver away..sorry...I'll try to remember in future) Back to the guitar. Te sides had been glued up and secured and are very strong. I then used the template I made and routed out the sustain block for the pickup areas. I then on the bottom side of the sustain block routed a small channel to meet the pickup routes. I will be using mini pots and I have tested fitting these through the 'f' holes on the template... The jack socket will not be on the surface...it will be on the side at the bottom. Ok...the top and the bottom. The template I made is actually only one half...I used the same side of my drawing and flipped it to make both sides and the 'f' holes symetrical (sp?). I drew round the template and rough cut the shape. I then carefully cut and sanded the 'f' holes. I must have taken about 4 hours on the 'f' holes on the top till I was absolutely happy. Tonight I glued the top and bottom onto the sides and sustain block. There are two photo's there taken wiht my mobile phone as I just remembered at the last minute to snap a pic...sorry about the quality. And that is the stage it is at now. When all dry, I'll drill through the top where the pick-ups are already routed and finish that off....and then rout the neck pocket. I will be making a glued in neck. I've missed quite a lot out of this as I'm too lazy to type...but I will say each side is absolutely symetrical...I spent ages checking measurements as I was cutting. then laying everything out on a measuring guide. Now that the top is on..it has created a lovely arch on the body top and bottom. I forgot to mention that on the top side edges of the sustain block - these were rounded over.. I will be painting this guitar and am currently deciding on colour. So this week I hope to tidy the edges up and then rout the binding channel also. I will also be binding the 'f' holes too... Will keep you all posted on progress. I also hope to start the neck this week with some luck and a good wind behind me. Cheers guys. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Awesome looking work man! I can't wait to see this one finished, because I know with your killer buffing skills this thing is going to shine! http://photobucket.com/albums/a337/i-j-c/?...nt=100_1375.jpg The right F-Hole looks a little bit lower than the left one. Is this just because the top is tilted on the chair? See ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Hi Al..nice to see you again mate.. Yeah, the top is rough cut..you can see the inner line...ignore all the other lines drawn...they are not in use. If you look at the mdf template...you will see there is only 1 'f' hole...I flipped the template and drew both the outside and f hole each side of the centre line... DOn't worry, I really did check that everything was symetrical and even. The 335 is a bit odd..because of the short horns...the bottom one always tends to look longer...it's just one of those odd things... Thanks for your nice comments man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Hi Al..nice to see you again mate.. Yeah, the top is rough cut..you can see the inner line...ignore all the other lines drawn...they are not in use. If you look at the mdf template...you will see there is only 1 'f' hole...I flipped the template and drew both the outside and f hole each side of the centre line... DOn't worry, I really did check that everything was symetrical and even. The 335 is a bit odd..because of the short horns...the bottom one always tends to look longer...it's just one of those odd things... Thanks for your nice comments man... ← Oh ok. Just making sure. It may have been my eyes that saw it one way, you know? Again though, it looks really nice and I can't wait to see the finished guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 Great stuff. I didn't have the know-how or guts to try a real 335, but my project is based on the shape. I have to confess, I'm not likely to ever get around to making a semi-hollowbody guitar, but I sure love them. Nice sneaker, btw! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 Update.. Tonight I took off the clamps glueing the top and bottom...nice join. I then used the router to trim back...and then began the sanding. In the pics below...you can see the arch created by the sustain block. Now that I have begun sanding...I really fancy staining a sunburst on this guitar as I quite like the grain now... Any thoughts would be great.. Updated photo's are here: i-j-c album Here's a photo for the post Cheers, ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROCKETROB Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 Very impressive work I must say. cool way of making the sides. Why not maple for the center block? I think this is what es335s have. Looks like you did a great job planning this build. Looking forward to the finished guitar. Good luck, Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 TOnight after some more sanding I'll be cutting the binding channel...I am undecided about using the router on top and will test using the router underneath and making the boddy level and do a bit at a time. Failing that...because of the curve on front and rear...I may cut the channel out by hand... The pickup cavities are already cut under the top, but I will wait until I'm finished sanding to cut the top out out of the cavities. My only concern now is sanding the top - especially round the 'f' holes (toward the centre of the guitar as they are raised on one edge) and the edges...as it can be all too easy to sand too much and make those areas thin.. So, hand sanding it is then...I'm currently on 600 grit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 Didn't cut the binding channel...just finished sanding the sides and top.. here's a progress pic... hopefully tomorrow I'll get teh binding channel, pickups, neck joint and TOM bridge positions done... I'm now thinking of lightening up this whole thing and making it a transparent milky white...with and ebony binding now...and having a maple neck instead of mahogany.. Anyway, the top and sides are nice and smooth now..quite pleased with this so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted July 19, 2005 Report Share Posted July 19, 2005 Man You May Find This Supprizeing But I REALLY LOVE That Style Of Body design My Gradfather Has One Like that And Since I was A Tiny Baby my grand parents would Put me On the floor in frount of My my grandpa's OLD Fender amp and Played Me to sleep, My whole life Ive Been around Music becase Of My Grandpa's Guitar, That Guitar Was Full of mystery and Magic To me and To this Day Im still mystified by that Guitar. Great Work man!! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyunsu Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 wow beautiful guitar.. hollow body is more difficut than solid body.. i want to good result of your work.. good.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 I'm now thinking of lightening up this whole thing and making it a transparent milky white...with and ebony binding now...and having a maple neck instead of mahogany.. That sounds like an aweosme idea. I think that would make this guitar look killer. Are you using a TOM or a archtop style bridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Thanks for the comments guys...that gives me a feeling I'm doing something right. Godin..I'm gonna use a TOM... Ok folks...did some more today. Now before I show pics..let me say this: the work I was going to do today..amde me real nervous...adn when I say nervous..I mean more nervous than when I get out of food shopping on a Saturday morning...opting to do the ironing instead...then realising 'she' will be back in 5 minutes..and I have spent the last 3 hours sitting on my lard ass watching TV....yup, more nervous than that. OK...what I did today was: 1. Rout the pups (they were already done...I just had to cut through the top) 2. Cut the binding channel front and rear - this is the really nervous bit.. 3. Rout the neck pocket. OK first up...using the remainder of the sides I cut..(I remembered to save them) I used these to clamp the body in place and cut through... Here: pic1 and here: pic2 Next...because this is a curved top...the baseplate of the router was no good for doing a binding channel. I then spent the next hour devising a method. I cut a piece of MDF and fitted this in to where the small round follower sits...and pushed the router bit through the centre. I then fastened this on top the follower and removed the base plate to give me enough clearance...the front was the worst due to the 'f' holes....any way...I then spent...and I'm not joking two hours building up the courage to rout the binding channel....check, re-check...measure...have a smoke...have a coffee..it was like I had and obssessive compulsive disorder.. Anyway...here is the mdf guide I made: pic3 and here it is attatched to the router... pic4 ...anyway...I went and did it...and it worked a treat...to say I was elated was an understatement. Doing this on a flat top is easy enough...but a curved top....nightmare...anyway it worked..here are some pics: pic5 - the back pic6 pic7 pic8 Phew! I'll just add here that I wanted a thin binding - it's 2mmx5mm Next I made a quick and easy jig to cut the neck pocket (I love home made quick and easy tools and jigs)...as you can see I used thin wood to follow the curve of the body...at the fron it was straight and allowed my to cut the neck pocket at an angle...meaning I can have a straight tenon on the neck...much easier imho. So here are some pics of the jig.. pic9 pic10 pic11 Phew again! So the neck pocket was then routed out..lastly a pic for the post..next up tomoorw I'll bind this and bind the 'f' holes.. Finishing pic... Pleased that is over...time to relax and have a beer.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald k wilson Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 Nice work so far... I like the slim f holes. The color looks slightly blue in the last pic, is that accurate? It's really ghostly, nice effect if it is. dkw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Anyone got any tips on binding 'f' holes..? It's fiddly work - I'm making the binding myself out of strips...but finding my fingers a little too fat...I'm just waiting to get my digits glued in place too.. This is going to take a while I think.. Cheers, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald k wilson Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 I left mine unbound, I didn't feel like tackling that aspect of the project. The Benedetto book suggests binding f holes before the top is glued on using tape. You can get at them alot easier . Heating and prebending is also an option. Get them close before you try to stick them in the holes. Good luck, dkw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 If you bind the holes they may look too small. I would leave them as is, I like them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Thanks Donald and Jay5..much appreciated. I'm in two minds - first of all it was one of those.....moments...I should have put them on before the top....I'll remember that tip Donald... Secondly, like you say Jay..I do like them without...but the binding I am using is only 1mm thick... My dilema is that I just want to give them (the f holes) a bit of (extra) protection... I have some white electrical tape...I think I will put that in place - one or two layers, trim to size...just so I can get an idea of what it looks like..of course that will not be permanent..just to get the 'feel' for it. Thanks guys (everyone) for your input... Oh, one other thing, Donald - is that the first archtop you made? (either way...it's impressive first or not)...I only ask, as after doing this, I seem to have a taste for doing more, I'm quite enjoying doing this - I initially feared doing this...but not now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neocon58 Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Wow, I can't wait to see this baby finished. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Thanks neocon I'm still not decided about the finish. I will start the neck sometime next week..so that should give me time to think about it when I get it all dry fitted together. I went and bought the wood for two more that I will be making in a similar vein to this....my confidence is boosted by the positive thoughts here...and the fact it's turned out better than I 'feared'..so anyone feeling not confident in doing this kind of guitar...take note...if I can do it, you can... I will make seperate posts for the other two I'm making..... Thanks to all for the encouragement.. Cheers, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Ok man, great job!!! Now did you find the courage to make the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Thanks Gun.. I'm starting the fretboard and neck the back end of this week...the neck will be mahogany and the fretboard will be rosewood. I'll be using jumbo wire and keeping to simple dots. First up though will be the fretboard so I can bind it.. ..whilst on that subject, I've now decided what finish this will have. I'm painting it Pearl White. The outer edge binding will be 1mm black on the inside and 1mm white on the outside...so when it's pained there will be a nice clear thin black line. Again, I gave some thought to this with binding the 'f' holes...they will be 1mm black on the body side and 1mm white outside...I'll give the same treatment to the headstock.The fretboard will be w/b/w binding. I'm also going to make my own pup covers following that thin black line theme..and the same for the pot knobs.. ..the hardware will be chrome. The pearl white paint I will be using is actually a Volvo car colour. However, I will be making it a little more pearl looking by adding some pearl powder I found at a craft shop to the paint - this powder, which comes in all sorts of hues can be added to anything. For the final coats of laquer I will be adding a white pearl poweder to the laquer...just to give it that bit extra pearl effect. I'll make the pickguard out of MOP (white MOP) - my logo will also be cut out of white MOP but I will add a thin 1mm line on the outside. But, for now - I need to finish the binding. I'm using some 6 foot lengths of 1mm plastic and cutting strips. as in the last pic above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 The finish sounds cool, what kind of paint setup do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald k wilson Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Oh, one other thing, Donald - is that the first archtop you made? First acoustic of any type. I do repairs because I know players and I have a woodworking shop. I made a couple of ratty electrics years ago (one of them may resurface here soon). I'm with you this is very rewarding even in the duh moments. I'm not done yet, the tough question is what's next!!! thanks, dkw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 The pearl white paint I will be using is actually a Volvo car colour. However, I will be making it a little more pearl looking by adding some pearl powder I found at a craft shop to the paint - this powder, which comes in all sorts of hues can be added to anything. For the final coats of laquer I will be adding a white pearl poweder to the laquer...just to give it that bit extra pearl effect.I'd be sure to test that theory before you shoot the body. I'm no painter, but I worked around body shops for years and I've seen a few paint jobs look like hammered crap because there was too much pearl. On the other hand, someone like LGM could probably tell you for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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