JimRayden Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/logo.htm Is it important to use spray adhesive? Wouldn't a wood glue like PVA do? It dries to pretty transparent. And what's that "water based glue and sealer" thing? ------------ Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mledbetter Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 spray adhesive is the best for mounting thin material to a flat surface.. you mist the back of the item and then rub it onto the surface.. the glue doesn't build up thick so it's pure contact.. a wood glue or something like that you're going to have a huge mess on your hands when you squeeze it all out from under the decal. I'd just go with water slide decal paper.. then you dont' need adhesive. If it's inkjet though, you have to spray a sealer on top of the decal so when you soak it off the backing paper your ink doesn't slide off into the water as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 uh, I don't think I could find water slide paper around here... ---------- Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 uh, I don't think I could find water slide paper around here... ---------- Jimbo ← Check your local hobby shop. You'd be suprised what they got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stageleft Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 You can also get it from these guys. I live close enough to pop in there all the time, but they do mostly a mail order business. http://www.micromark.com/ Good stuff. I use it a lot, for guitars and my other hobbies. George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I've seen this one for cheap. Testors Custom Decal System Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 These look cool. But as I don't have a color printer, I'd like to try out Jehle's method. With his method I can paint the colours "behind" the outlines. That sounds cool. One question remains: what's that "water based glue and sealer" thing? ----------- Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinP Posted April 20, 2005 Report Share Posted April 20, 2005 what's that "water based glue and sealer" thing? ---------- Jimbo ← Just use 2 different products instead (if needed of course): a clear (glossy) laquer (from spraycan) for sealing and a spray adhesive for glueing the damn decal to headstock. Btw: Jehle's method works fine, but has it's own tricks . First: it was a bitch to get the colour nice and uniform. Second: you'll want to get the decal as thin as possible with no "sharp" edges. Jep, if you use a lot of laquer you'll get it all leveled, but the decal edges migth still be visible. So, for a start sand the decal down "as far as you dare" before glueing to the headstock. After it's done, you can carefully sand even more. I used a lot of slow-cureing superglue (yes, indeed:)) instead of the contact adhesive, pressed it out beneath the decal so that all the decal edges were nicely covered with s.glue (s.glue "melts" the decal material a bit). Beware! you can't just put the decal flat on the headstock, you have to "bend" it on and press all the air out by going. Let it dry overnight. Sanded the edges smooth / removed most of the pressed out glue. What was left formed quite a smooth transition from decal-to-headstock already before clearcoating. And Jimbo - if you have any specific questions abt. "where to get stuff if you're living on the dark side of the Moon", just check my profile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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