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Swirl Finish - On The Top Of A Bound Body?


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Hey, I just finished building a body and have been driving myself nuts trying to figure out how to do a swirl finish on just the top. To add to the problems, this body has white pearloid binding on the top. I've thought about just masking off the binding, sides, and back really good and dipping, but I don't think the tape would hold up under water. Although, I haven't tested it yet. I have never seen a swirl with binding or one that is just swirled on the top for that matter. Just wondering if anyone out there has run into this problem and can offer some tips. Thanks.

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I actually just finished testing with all the different types of tape I have around my house. The blue painters tape didn't hold up. It allowed to much bleeding. The plain white masking tape did the same with a little less bleeding. And..... the duct tape just didn't work at all. So... I guess the old saying isn't true "If you can't fix it... duct it!" :D

Back to square one.

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I was hoping it wouldn't come to all that. :D I know they make a liquid mask used by artists that you brush on and let dry. When you are done painting you rub it off with your fingers. Can't think what its called right now, but I'll be picking some up tomorrow from the art supply store and trying it out. If that doesn't work I guess I'll just grease up the old elbows and do it the hard way. Wish me luck.

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Well what I have seen from doing a swirl is that the layer of paint on the guitar is very thin. Just trying to get rid of some runs I had to be VERY careful because the slightest pressure and the paint would start to come off. So I don’t think that removing the paint will be that hard.

Good Luck

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Could you dip the body in latex, cut and peel the latex off the top and then dip it?

Either that or do it with the best tape that gives you a little bleeding, then there would be less paint to remove from the body.

Just a thought :D

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artists' masking fluid would be a good option, you might need a couple of jars though. I use it in a lot of my airbrush jobs and i think the stuff's great. it rubs off dead easy and doesnt leave any marks or residues. its also waterproof. Ive done a few arty things similar to dipping guitars, and it has never bled through. It generally costs between £4 - £5 (in britain anyway)

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I think that 3M masking tape should be more than enough to cover the part you don't want painted! just leave the top of the binding showing and swirl the baby, after its almost completely dry, peel the tape and wait for it to dry completely, once dry, carefuly use a scraper and take the paint out from the edge of the binding, (if you are doing this please be very careful) I did my LP this way, I didn't swirl it but painted just the top and it turn out great, here is a close up of the way the binding turned out! It shouldn't be too hard to pull. Good luck. and once you are done cleaning the edge of the binding, just tape half way down the binding and clear the top. Once done just fade the clear at the binding with the one from the original finish, you can't see the difference on them, I guess that it will be a bit obvious in a few years once the original laquer starts yellowing and the acrylic doesn't but I won't care!

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the first thing that comes to my mind would be to wipe a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the sides and back and even the binding if you could do a straight line of it with an artist brush of some sort. dip it and let it dry thoroughly and i'm guessing that a wipe with an old t shirt would take all the unwanted paint off.

'course you might want to test it on your brother's guitar first. :D

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Hey, thanks for all the help. I tried the artists masking fluid today on scrap and it worked beautifully. I used tape on the piece of scrap and then put the masking liquid over the tape. No bleeding whatsoever. When I swirl the guitar I will not tape the entire binding, but only halfway up. I will use the artists liquid masking to cover the rest of the binding so there will be no bleed through on the body. It seems like an awful lot of effort to keep from bleeding through, but well worth the effort. This was one of those projects that wasn't supposed to turn out the way it is. I wasn't completely happy with the top wood and decided to paint rather than stain. I had already finished the body, but had to sand the top back. The paint I'm using isn't very forgiving when sanding. If you get a run, you pretty much have to strip and reshoot. :D So I decided instead of dealing with it, I would just swirl the top and have the back and sides stay the way they are. Hopefully it will look decent in the end and I won't have to send it to Drak to WOD it. B) I'll probably dip it later on this week and try to get it put together and get some pics posted. Thanks again.

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In the UK we have a glue called copydex which is used a lot in schools as a non-toxic craft glue. It's basically liquid latex, and is much cheaper than buying liquid frisket or masking fluid. I'd keep an eye out for it. The only downside is it gets a little lumpy for fine masking, but for the kind of accuracy you need it should be fine. Brush it on over your sealed wood, and afterwards you can peel it off like bad sunburn :D

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